Sunday, December 30, 2012
Dear Aidan,
How is my sweet boy doing today? I hope you had a wonderful day with your friends and nannies! My guess is that you played quite a bit, did not want to sleep, and ate like crazy! How is your crawling coming around? Dad and I can't wait to get back to Addis to help you crawl more! I know in a few months I'll be kicking myself for saying that! Everyone says babies are so much easier when they're immobile! Oh well! You're a cruiser and an explorer- so bring on the challenge! I think Dad and I are ready :)
Today was yet another wonderful day. We started out waking up around 6:30 AM, getting ready and packing. We only brought 1 suitcase with us, and although it's only been 2 nights, I know Dad is kind of sick of sharing a suitcase with me. He likes everything neat and organized...and I'm a tornado! :) Dad was very quick to designate his side and my side of the suitcase, but slowly, my things are taking over! Oooops! After we packed, we ate breakfast- again with injera. It's funny because back home in Thailand, we rarely eat a meal that doesn't include rice. And since we started traveling in Ethiopia, I'm pretty sure we won't have many meals without injera!
After breakfast, we were picked up by a van that our travel guide had arranged. The plan today was to take a 4-5 hour van ride to Gonder, which is northeast of Lake Tana. After loading into the van, we noticed other passengers- local shepherds dressed in traditional white clothing. We said, "Salam-no," and Dad practiced asking "How are you?" in Amharic, which always creates laughs. We drove around the city for about 1 hour trying to pick up more passengers. Although there were 5 of us in the van, it was evident they wanted at least 8.
We stopped at the "bus station" where our driver talked/argued with a large man. He was obviously a pusher and was trying to get passengers. Once we left and started driving around town again, it seemed like that man was literally on every single corner! He was negotiating with everyone, trying to fill up our van and other vans. As we don't speak Amharic, we didn't quite know all that was going on. When police drove by, our driver slammed the door and took off. We started heading towards Gonder, only to be stopped at a police check point. Our driver didn't have a paid ticket to bring passengers out of Bahir Dar, so we had to turn around. By this point, Dad and I were a bit aggitated so Dad called our guide. He immediately appeared out of no where and arranged for us to have another van.
We all piled into that van and started our drive around the city again. Soon, the van was full, courtsey of the pusher. Our travel friends consisted of 2 young couples in city clothes, the original shepherds, an older woman in tranditional clothes who was beyond thrilled to sit next to Dad (a "FARANJI!!!!" as she exclaimed with her tootless grin), and a teenage girl and her older brother. It was quite the mix. We then took off towards Gonder.
Although the 1.5 hours it took to fill a van wasn't the most pleasant experience, especially with the pusher, it was an important one to have. My heart continues to break for Ethiopia everyday out of love and respect. In Ethiopia, there are so many educated people- people with multiple college degrees and skilled trades. However, there isn't much work. There's not much industry or trade. There are not many foreign investments or companies. But yet, there is so much potential. And because there aren't a lot of jobs, those that exist are in high demand. Earning money to survive is in high demand. And this can make people pushy. Not because they're rude, but because they need to be to survive. There are many others trying to do the same thing to compete for the same money. It was an eye-opening experience to the reality many Ethiopians face. I know Ethiopia has improved in the past 20 years since the fall of the Derg, but there's still a ways to go. I've said this before and I'll say it again and again. Ethiopia can do it just as well, if not better, than anybody. Although there are other issues that lie in the government and industry, the people in Ethiopia are the country's true strength and treasure. They are smart, kind, compassionate, brave, determined and hopeful. For a country that has endured so much, its people have persevered and become even stronger.
I can tell you that as your mother, I could not be any prouder that you are Ethiopian. You have those traits and strengths running through your veins. Dad and I were told on many occasions by locals that we became part Ethiopian by adopting you. They said, "You're part Ethiopian now!" I can't even begin to say how honored we are for that. I hope that as you grow, you will always remain proud of your birth country and its people!!!! After all, there is an awful lot to be proud of!!!!!
During our drive to Gonder, we stopped several times along the way to drop people or goods off, and to pick up more! It was very similar to a van ride we had in Laos in October. As most people don't have cars, they rely on passing vans for transport. There were may people on the side of the road waiting for a ride or a way to carry something north. If we had room and were headed in that direction, our driver would do it. It was a really neat system and great to see how interconnected the different communities were, even without modern luxuries of private transportation and internet.
The drive was beautiful. We passed thousands of farms and drove through many small towns. We also climbed in elevation along the plateau towards Gonder.
There is a folklore in Ethiopia that I found very appealing and it is the perfect description of the roads.
"Many years ago, a donkey, a goat and a dog shared a taxi. When the taxi stopped, the donkey paid and received his correct change. The dog paid, but was given short change. And the goat got out and ran without paying at all. So today, when a car drives by, the goat runs away in fear of having to pay for his stolen fair. The dog chases the car, barking, asking for his right change. And the donkey, who neither owes or is owed anything, walks tranquilly on."
That pretty much summarizes our journey! We were chased by hundred of dogs. The donkeys that had loads of grain, water or other goods strapped on their sides, didn't mind, or move for the cars. And the goats would run, part ways, and scatter for the cars to go by! Although we were driving on a major 2 lane paved highway, it also served as a local pathway. As such, the road was full of locals walking to town with their animals. We all shared the road nicely! :)
Once we arrived in Gonder, Dad and I were dropped off at our original hotel. The hotel was a budget hotel rated highly in our guide book. We were trying to see northern Ethiopia as cost-efficiently as we could. We definitely splurged some days to gain amazing experiences, but we didn't want to splurge unless necessary. Once we were checked into our hotel, we were told there was no water. We later learned that for most hotels, unless they have their own well, water is brought to them in water trucks. They then pay for their water from the truck and have their water tanks filled. We were told that the water would "be arriving later." Dad was very skeptical and a bit worried about the hotel as well. We walked around town for a bit and found a gorgeous new hotel with clean rooms, running water, hot showers and free breakfast! We quickly decided to change hotels.
We went back to our first hotel and, as a consolation for checking out early, paid for 1 night: $10.00. We took our luggage to our new hotel and checked in. We had a room on the top floor with a large balcony! It was wonderful because we were able to enjoy the sunset over Gonder this evening! Once we were settled, we cleaned up a bit and ventured off into Gonder.
The first stop we made was at a travel agent. Gonder is the launching point into the Simien Mountain National Park. We want to spend tomorrow there. We met with the tour agent and arranged for a driver, 4-wheel drive Land Rover, guide and scout for tomorrow! Then we went to explore!
On the way to the large castles in Gonder, we were approached by a group of boys that looked like they were elementary school. They asked for "Birr" for bread. Rather than giving them money, Dad and I went to a small fruit "stand" (tarp laid on the road with fruit laid out) and bought 2 kg of bananas for about $1.50. We then gave each boy 2 bananas and they were thrilled! They ate them slowly, enjoying their fruit! It made me happy to see them enjoying healthy, filling food!
We walked around into the gates of the castle region. Dad and I decided against a guide, which I now regret as I don't have as much information as I would like to tell you about what we saw! Nonetheless, the castle area was surrounded by a huge stone wall that was about 400-500 years old. Gonder is nicknamed the Camelot of Africa, except that this "Camelot" actually exists! The actual royal enclosure is huge and was built and allegedly occupied by the "Lions of Judah"- descendents of Solomon and Queen Sheba. It is said that Gonder was a city of extreme brutality and wealth that have been lost through time. Gonder is a UNESCO world heritage site, and all the castles have been restored!
The main castle is Fasilada's Palace. It has 4 doomed-towers and combines work from India, Portugal, northern Ethiopia and Sahara Africa. The castle has a HUGE dining hall and incredibly high ceilings! Behind the castle are smaller buildings that were the kitchen and water cistern/pool.
There are other castles as well, all made by King Fasilada's descendents. There is the Palace of Iyasu I, who was the son of Yohanes, and is considered the best King of Gonder. This castle used to be covered in mirrors and gold inside. However, an earthquake in 1704 and bombing during World War II destroyed much of the castle. Today, there is a banquet hall and storage facilities, as well as a large library around the castle. There are also stables, a Turkish bath and chapels.
After spending about 2 hours exploring the castle, Dad and I took a tuk-tuk to Fasilada's Bath, about 20 minutes away. This was located on a hill in a very peaceful setting. There is a large in-ground pool with multiple stair cases and beautiful old buildings. It was used for bathing and religious ceremonies. The royalty used to wear lifejackets that were made of goat skin! Today, the pool is filled up once yearly with water from a river 500km away! The pool is blessed by a priest, and then used for a large pool party for local Christians. This occurs around Timkat, Ethiopia's celebration of Jesus' baptism, in January.
Dad and I enjoyed our stay and then headed back to town. We were on the search for local food for dinner when we were approached by a boy selling gum. He was selling chewing gum for 10 birr: about $0.50. He had perfect English and was as cute as could be. At first, Dad and I thought he was going to ask for money when we were talking to him. Instead, he took out his "coin collection" from his pocket. He has collected many coins from around the world from tourists. After learning he was 12 and in 8th grade, we learned more about him. We thoroughly enjoyed our conversation with Mohammad and asked him for a recommendation for dinner. He walked us to a beautiful Ethiopian restaurant near his house, talking the whole way! Dad and I invited him to join us for dinner, which he loved!
Mohammad told us all about his familiy, religion and schooling in Ethiopia. He's Muslim and so he ordered "fasting food"- traditional food without animal products. We learned about the subjects he learns in school and that he wants to be an international tour guide when he's older. He learned his English in public school and has 5 siblings. His mother makes injera for a living and support her family of 6 on $1.10 and day. That's it! Ron and Mohammad talked about their childhood and Mohammad cracked us up by calling Dad, "His brother from another mother!"
After dinner, we went back to the hotel to get Egyptian pounds and Thai Baht for Mohammad to add to his collection. We fell in love with him and wanted to buy him English books. The book store was closed, but he told us his mother could buy books for him- which we believed. He walked us to his house, which was a small, 1-room mud building with a tin roof. Inside, his mother was making injera and his siblings were eating. There were a few small, thin mattresses piled high in the corner. Mohammad translated for us and we told his mother how impressed by Mohammad we were. We gave her the equivalent of $15.00 to help with Mohammad's schooling and books! She literally began jumping and squealing! She was so grateful! We thanked her and said good-bye to Mohammad. It was such an amazing evening courtsey of our 12-year old local guide!
You know how earlier, I mentioned the hope and love I have for Ethopia? Well, tonight quadrupled that! It amazes me at how many children here learn English, and how fluent they are. They all have goals for their futures and a drive to succeed. I have no doubt that Ethiopia will continue to improve every year. I hope and pray that these childrens' dreams will be fully met, and then some! Their perserveance and determination has earned them that!
Dad and I went back to the hotel to enjoy the sunset. It was beatiful and we enjoyed our time on the balcony! It was very peaceful and the perfect end to a perfect day.
Although we didn't spend the day with you, Aidan Bedassa, I love you even more after today! Learning about your country and meeting Ethiopia's amazing people has truly touched my heart. I have traveled the world and have been to some amazing places, but never in my life have I met people like Ethiopians. Ethiopia is Africa's true gem, and you, my son, are its most precious diamond!
Sleep well Aidan! Know how much I love you! I miss you!
All My Love,
Mom
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