Dear Aidan: Day 9

Sunday, December 30, 2012

Dear Aidan,

How is my sweet boy doing today?  I hope you had a wonderful day with your friends and nannies!  My guess is that you played quite a bit, did not want to sleep, and ate like crazy!  How is your crawling coming around?  Dad and I can't wait to get back to Addis to help you crawl more!  I know in a few months I'll be kicking myself for saying that!  Everyone says babies are so much easier when they're immobile!  Oh well!  You're a cruiser and an explorer- so bring on the challenge!  I think Dad and I are ready :)

Today was yet another wonderful day.  We started out waking up around 6:30 AM, getting ready and packing.  We only brought 1 suitcase with us, and although it's only been 2 nights, I know Dad is kind of sick of sharing a suitcase with me.  He likes everything neat and organized...and I'm a tornado! :) Dad was very quick to designate his side and my side of the suitcase, but slowly, my things are taking over!  Oooops!  After we packed, we ate breakfast- again with injera.  It's funny because back home in Thailand, we rarely eat a meal that doesn't include rice.  And since we started traveling in Ethiopia, I'm pretty sure we won't have many meals without injera!

After breakfast, we were picked up by a van that our travel guide had arranged.  The plan today was to take a 4-5 hour van ride to Gonder, which is northeast of Lake Tana.  After loading into the van, we noticed other passengers- local shepherds dressed in traditional white clothing.  We said, "Salam-no," and Dad practiced asking "How are you?" in Amharic, which always creates laughs.  We drove around the city for about 1 hour trying to pick up more passengers.  Although there were 5 of us in the van, it was evident they wanted at least 8.  

We stopped at the "bus station" where our driver talked/argued with a large man.  He was obviously a pusher and was trying to get passengers.  Once we left and started driving around town again, it seemed like that man was literally on every single corner!  He was negotiating with everyone, trying to fill up our van and other vans.  As we don't speak Amharic, we didn't quite know all that was going on.  When police drove by, our driver slammed the door and took off.  We started heading towards Gonder, only to be stopped at a police check point.  Our driver didn't have a paid ticket to bring passengers out of Bahir Dar, so we had to turn around.  By this point, Dad and I were a bit aggitated so Dad called our guide.  He immediately appeared out of no where and arranged for us to have another van.

We all piled into that van and started our drive around the city again.  Soon, the van was full, courtsey of the pusher.  Our travel friends consisted of 2 young couples in city clothes, the original shepherds, an older woman in tranditional clothes who was beyond thrilled to sit next to Dad (a "FARANJI!!!!" as she exclaimed with her tootless grin), and a teenage girl and her older brother.  It was quite the mix.  We then took off towards Gonder.

Although the 1.5 hours it took to fill a van wasn't the most pleasant experience, especially with the pusher, it was an important one to have.  My heart continues to break for Ethiopia everyday out of love and respect.  In Ethiopia, there are so many educated people- people with multiple college degrees and skilled trades.  However, there isn't much work.  There's not much industry or trade.  There are not many foreign investments or companies.  But yet, there is so much potential.  And because there aren't a lot of jobs, those that exist are in high demand.  Earning money to survive is in high demand.  And this can make people pushy.  Not because they're rude, but because they need to be to survive.  There are many others trying to do the same thing to compete for the same money.  It was an eye-opening experience to the reality many Ethiopians face.  I know Ethiopia has improved in the past 20 years since the fall of the Derg, but there's still a ways to go.  I've said this before and I'll say it again and again.  Ethiopia can do it just as well, if not better, than anybody.  Although there are other issues that lie in the government and industry, the people in Ethiopia are the country's true strength and treasure.  They are smart, kind, compassionate, brave, determined and hopeful.  For a country that has endured so much, its people have persevered and become even stronger.  

I can tell you that as your mother, I could not be any prouder that you are Ethiopian.  You have those traits and strengths running through your veins.  Dad and I were told on many occasions by locals that we became part Ethiopian by adopting you.  They said, "You're part Ethiopian now!"  I can't even begin to say how honored we are for that.  I hope that as you grow, you will always remain proud of your birth country and its people!!!!  After all, there is an awful lot to be proud of!!!!!

During our drive to Gonder, we stopped several times along the way to drop people or goods off, and to pick up more!  It was very similar to a van ride we had in Laos in October.  As most people don't have cars, they rely on passing vans for transport.  There were may people on the side of the road waiting for a ride or a way to carry something north.  If we had room and were headed in that direction, our driver would do it.  It was a really neat system and great to see how interconnected the different communities were, even without modern luxuries of private transportation and internet.

The drive was beautiful.  We passed thousands of farms and drove through many small towns.  We also climbed in elevation along the plateau towards Gonder.

There is a folklore in Ethiopia that I found very appealing and it is the perfect description of the roads.

"Many years ago, a donkey, a goat and a dog shared a taxi.  When the taxi stopped, the donkey paid and received his correct change.  The dog paid, but was given short change.  And the goat got out and ran without paying at all.  So today, when a car drives by, the goat runs away in fear of having to pay for his stolen fair.  The dog chases the car, barking, asking for his right change.  And the donkey, who neither owes or is owed anything, walks tranquilly on."

That pretty much summarizes our journey!  We were chased by hundred of dogs.  The donkeys that had loads of grain, water or other goods strapped on their sides, didn't mind, or move for the cars.  And the goats would run, part ways, and scatter for the cars to go by!  Although we were driving on a major 2 lane paved highway, it also served as a local pathway.  As such, the road was full of locals walking to town with their animals.  We all shared the road nicely! :)

Once we arrived in Gonder, Dad and I were dropped off at our original hotel.  The hotel was a budget hotel rated highly in our guide book.  We were trying to see northern Ethiopia as cost-efficiently as we could.  We definitely splurged some days to gain amazing experiences, but we didn't want to splurge unless necessary.  Once we were checked into our hotel, we were told there was no water.  We later learned that for most hotels, unless they have their own well, water is brought to them in water trucks.  They then pay for their water from the truck and have their water tanks filled.  We were told that the water would "be arriving later."  Dad was very skeptical and a bit worried about the hotel as well.  We walked around town for a bit and found a gorgeous new hotel with clean rooms, running water, hot showers and free breakfast!  We quickly decided to change hotels.

We went back to our first hotel and, as a consolation for checking out early, paid for 1 night: $10.00.  We took our luggage to our new hotel and checked in.  We had a room on the top floor with a large balcony!  It was wonderful because we were able to enjoy the sunset over Gonder this evening!  Once we were settled, we cleaned up a bit and ventured off into Gonder.

The first stop we made was at a travel agent.  Gonder is the launching point into the Simien Mountain National Park.  We want to spend tomorrow there.  We met with the tour agent and arranged for a driver, 4-wheel drive Land Rover, guide and scout for tomorrow!  Then we went to explore!

On the way to the large castles in Gonder, we were approached by a group of boys that looked like they were elementary school.  They asked for "Birr" for bread.  Rather than giving them money, Dad and I went to a small fruit "stand" (tarp laid on the road with fruit laid out) and bought 2 kg of bananas for about $1.50.  We then gave each boy 2 bananas and they were thrilled!  They ate them slowly, enjoying their fruit!  It made me happy to see them enjoying healthy, filling food!

We walked around into the gates of the castle region.  Dad and I decided against a guide, which I now regret as I don't have as much information as I would like to tell you about what we saw!  Nonetheless, the castle area was surrounded by a huge stone wall that was about 400-500 years old.  Gonder is nicknamed the Camelot of Africa, except that this "Camelot" actually exists!  The actual royal enclosure is huge and was built and allegedly occupied by the "Lions of Judah"- descendents of Solomon and Queen Sheba.  It is said that Gonder was a city of extreme brutality and wealth that have been lost through time.  Gonder is a UNESCO world heritage site, and all the castles have been restored!

The main castle is Fasilada's Palace.  It has 4 doomed-towers and combines work from India, Portugal, northern Ethiopia and Sahara Africa.  The castle has a HUGE dining hall and incredibly high ceilings!  Behind the castle are smaller buildings that were the kitchen and water cistern/pool.

There are other castles as well, all made by King Fasilada's descendents.  There is the Palace of Iyasu I, who was the son of Yohanes, and is considered the best King of Gonder.  This castle used to be covered in mirrors and gold inside.  However, an earthquake in 1704 and bombing during World War II destroyed much of the castle.  Today, there is a banquet hall and storage facilities, as well as a large library around the castle.  There are also stables, a Turkish bath and chapels.

After spending about 2 hours exploring the castle, Dad and I took a tuk-tuk to Fasilada's Bath, about 20 minutes away.  This was located on a hill in a very peaceful setting.  There is a large in-ground pool with multiple stair cases and beautiful old buildings.  It was used for bathing and religious ceremonies.  The royalty used to wear lifejackets that were made of goat skin!  Today, the pool is filled up once yearly with water from a river 500km away!  The pool is blessed by a priest, and then used for a large pool party for local Christians.  This occurs around Timkat, Ethiopia's celebration of Jesus' baptism, in January. 

Dad and I enjoyed our stay and then headed back to town.  We were on the search for local food for dinner when we were approached by a boy selling gum.  He was selling chewing gum for 10 birr: about $0.50.  He had perfect English and was as cute as could be.  At first, Dad and I thought he was going to ask for money when we were talking to him.  Instead, he took out his "coin collection" from his pocket.  He has collected many coins from around the world from tourists.  After learning he was 12 and in 8th grade, we learned more about him.  We thoroughly enjoyed our conversation with Mohammad and asked him for a recommendation for dinner.   He walked us to a beautiful Ethiopian restaurant near his house, talking the whole way!  Dad and I invited him to join us for dinner, which he loved!

Mohammad told us all about his familiy, religion and schooling in Ethiopia.  He's Muslim and so he ordered "fasting food"- traditional food without animal products.  We learned about the subjects he learns in school and that he wants to be an international tour guide when he's older.  He learned his English in public school and has 5 siblings.  His mother makes injera for a living and support her family of 6 on $1.10 and day.  That's it!  Ron and Mohammad talked about their childhood and Mohammad cracked us up by calling Dad, "His brother from another mother!"  

After dinner, we went back to the hotel to get Egyptian pounds and Thai Baht for Mohammad to add to his collection.  We fell in love with him and wanted to buy him English books.  The book store was closed, but he told us his mother could buy books for him- which we believed.  He walked us to his house, which was a small, 1-room mud building with a tin roof.  Inside, his mother was making injera and his siblings were eating.  There were a few small, thin mattresses piled high in the corner.  Mohammad translated for us and we told his mother how impressed by Mohammad we were.  We gave her the equivalent of $15.00 to help with Mohammad's schooling and books!  She literally began jumping and squealing!  She was so grateful!  We thanked her and said good-bye to Mohammad.  It was such an amazing evening courtsey of our 12-year old local guide!

You know how earlier, I mentioned the hope and love I have for Ethopia?  Well, tonight quadrupled that!  It amazes me at how many children here learn English, and how fluent they are.  They all have goals for their futures and a drive to succeed.  I have no doubt that Ethiopia will continue to improve every year.  I hope and pray that these childrens' dreams will be fully met, and then some!  Their perserveance and determination has earned them that!

Dad and I went back to the hotel to enjoy the sunset.  It was beatiful and we enjoyed our time on the balcony!  It was very peaceful and the perfect end to a perfect day.

Although we didn't spend the day with you, Aidan Bedassa, I love you even more after today!  Learning about your country and meeting Ethiopia's amazing people has truly touched my heart.  I have traveled the world and have been to some amazing places, but never in my life have I met people like Ethiopians.  Ethiopia is Africa's true gem, and you, my son, are its most precious diamond!

Sleep well Aidan!  Know how much I love you!  I miss you!

All My Love,

Mom

Dear Aidan: Day 8

After a brief hiatus (we've been busy), my journal to Aidan and documentation of our journey in Ethiopia continues!

Saturday, December 29, 2012

Dear Aidan,

Good evening sweet boy!  I hope you had a fantastic day playing with your friends, learning from your nannies, and enjoying all life has to offer!  Although we've only been traveling for 2 days, today was our best adventure yet!  We had the opportunity to experience "true" Ethiopia and one of  your country's greatest natural treasures- the Blue Nile Falls!

Yesterday, Dad and I arranged to have our tour guide from Lake Tana pick us up at our hotel and take us to the Blue Nile Falls.  We woke up early to eat breakfast.  We were both feeling much better today after a long night's sleep!  The warm shower felt amazing, as did the warm air at Bahir Dar!  We ate a delicious buffet breakfast, complete with brown injera.  It's funny how that's slowly becoming a staple in our diet here while traveling.  I'm going to try to find a way to make it at home as I think it will be the perfect finger food for you!  Nothing beats a food made to be eaten with your hands (although I know your Dad disagrees)!

Once we were ready, we met our van out front.  We had a local guide and there were 2 other tourists joining us.  We drove out of Bahir Dar and onto a dirt highway.  It was about a 45-minute drive to the falls.  Along the way, we saw hundreds of herders and shepherds with their animals going to market.  There were many women with bags of grain on their heads or large jugs of water on their backs.  There were children out playing in front of the simple, mud houses.  There were old men out tending to their fields of tef.  There were dogs barking at our car as we drove by, leaving a trail of dust.  The entire scene was mesmerizing!  Dad tried taking pictures of everything while I just kept making mental memories.  This was the Ethiopia I was looking forward to exploring and experiencing.

All the fields were incredibly green and looked very productive!  There were mounds of harvested tef (the grain used to make injera) in from of everyone's houses.  There were even some irrigation systems.  The land was flat with rolling hills off in the distance.  It was so beautiful.  And as busy as everything was, it was peaceful!

As we neared the Blue Nile Falls, we went through the town of Tis Issat- the entrance to the falls.  In Amharic, this town means, "Water that Spits."  It's a very appropriate name!  We paid our entrance fee and drove to park.  We knew we had about a 30-minute walk/hike to the base of the falls.  The trail started out wide, but slowly became more narrow.  We crossed a beautiful bridge built by the Portuguese hundreds of years ago.  It is still standing and pristine!  

Once we crossed the bridge, we began to climb around the trail on rocks and dirt.  The trail zig-zaged through the mountains along the mountainside.  As it was Saturday- market day, hundreds of locals were headed to town for the market.  Many were dressed in traditional clothing.  My favorite part was all of the animals- we shared the way with goats, sheep and cattle.  It was so much fun to be a part of a local setting!  

Also along the way, we passed a house where a girl, about 13-14 years old, was making injera outside.  We peeked our heads inside to watch, and she motioned for us to watch.  To make injera, you take crushed tef and mix it with water so it's "just right."  Then, you let it ferment for 3 days.  Ethiopians don't like sweet tef- it needs to be sour.  If it's too sweet, it wasn't made well.  After it ferments, you pour it on a very large, slightly greased skillet in a circle like a pancake.  It cooks for about 2-3 minutes and bubbles, just like a pancake.  Rather than flipping it, you pull it off and you're done.  The injera is stored in very large wicker circle containers.  The pieces are laid out on top of each other to be mixed and eaten with everything.  The girl let us try some of her tef, and it was DELICIOUS!  She even gave us yummy spices to add!  We thanked her and gave her a small tip!

After about 20 minutes, we saw our first view of the falls.  During the rainy season, the falls easily measure 400 meters across.  In the dry season, as it is now, they are about half their full size.  Additionally, a large hydroelectric dam was built upstream on the Blue Nile River.  This has greatly decreased the size and power or the falls.  However, they were still incredibly beautiful and impressive!

We continued our walk across a LOOONG suspension bridge (Dad was proud that I wasn't even scared) and then we fumbled down a sloping rock face to the base of the falls.  It was still early- around 10AM, so we were the first tourists to arrive!  There was a small rainbow that we could see in the mist of the falls.  It was beautiful!  As we got closer, the powerful sound of the falls became louder and we felt like we were being rained on it was so misty from the water.  It was very refreshing!  

We shared the space with many local shepherd boys.  They had brought their animals (goats and sheep) to the lush grass near the falls.  They were very friendly and we shared some laughs.  They even let me look at some of their animals and all looked healthy!  Dad thinks I'm crazy whenever I do this, but I can't help it!  I struggle touching an animal without doing some sort of physical exam!  Luckily, Dad is slowly getting used to this, as I'm sure you will, too!  I just can't wait to introduce you to the many amazing animal species and teach you how wonderful they all are!  You'll have a lot of visits to zoos and farms in your future, little Aidan!

After spending about 30 minutes at the falls, we began our walk back.  We stopped for a brief coffee ceremony on top of a hill overlooking the falls.  After having our first Ethiopian coffee in Addis at the foster home, we were hooked.  Normally I drink Diet Coke in the mornings (as you will soon know), but they don't really have much diet pop in Ethiopia.  Coffee has become my new caffeine fix- at least here!

We decided to take a different route back to our car.  We walked back on the other side of the falls along a flat plateau that was covered in crops.  It was very peaceful.  Along the way, we ran into many local children playing with inflated soccer balls.  Dad and I joined them for a bit and enjoyed their laughter.  It made us miss you more!!  The children here are beautiful.  I think in order to be Ethiopian you need an infectious smile and eyes that glisten!

Along the way, Dad was approached by a man who said he was the coach of a soccer team.  He wanted Dad to give him money to buy a soccer ball for the team he coached.  Dad said "No" as he's uncomfortable giving money to people, but offered to actually buy a ball.  The man walked back with us the rest of the way to town.

Before we got to town, we had to board a small boat to be taken across the Blue Nile River.  There was a lot of hustle and bustle along the banks as people were unloading reeds and other goods.  There were children helping, although most were in the water splashing around and playing!  It was warm out and would have been so nice to have joined them!

Once we reached the van, Dad went to buy a soccer ball for 200 birr- about $10.00.  We don't really know if that man was really a soccer coach, but he seemed legitimate.  If he wasn't, oh well.  Some locals just received a new soccer ball to play with at least!

The van ride back to Bahir Dar was just as interesting as the way out.  More people were out and about as it was almost lunch time.  Dad and I both fell more and more with Ethiopia every minute we were out!  

Back in town, Dad and I ate lunch at our hotel.  Our hotel, Papyrus Hotel, has a large swimming pool and a nice pool deck.  We ate at the pool restaurant.  There were 4-5 people in the pool swimming, and they were really good!  As swimmers, that made Dad and I really happy to see!  That's another thing we can't wait to do with you- get you in the water and teach you to swim!  Dad taught Paige and Bleu how to swim last summer in the Puget Sound!  I know you'll take to it better than your puppies did :)

For lunch, Dad and I ordered local fish from Lake Tana.  The fish was called, "The Worlds' Best Fish."  How could we not have ordered it with that title?  The fish was delicious and I do believe it is a contender for some of the world's best fish!

After lunch, Dad and I wandered over to the HUGE market.  It is busiest on Saturdays and we were prepared.  The market isn't geared towards tourists, but to locals.  There were many different sections and they sold everything you could ever think of.  The first section we entered was the tire section.  The locals had large, worn truck rubber tires that they would shred, cut apart or rework to form many new working items such as shoes, water bags, donkey harnesses, etc.  Their skills were amazing and the products were so functional!  They have definitely mastered the idea of "REUSE" here in Ethiopia!

From there, we saw the grain markets.  Each vendor had multiple bags of grain that were filled.  You could buy wheat, tef, rice, pasta- whatever you wanted.!  Then there was the vegetable/fruit section full of tomatoes, potatoes, bananas, pineapples, avocados and oranges.  Behind everything was the life stock market where you could buy or trade your poultry, cattle, donkeys, goats or sheep.  Lastly, there was the spice market.  Dad and I bought a few traditional spices to bring home with us.  Again, everything was so fresh and colorful!  At the end of the market, I bought a traditional Ethiopian white dress and shawl.  I'm going to wear this on Genna- your Christmas!

After we finished shopping, we walked to the lake front.  There is a beautiful stone path along the lake that we walked.  Along the way, there were locals swimming, some bathing, and even 1 fishing.  There were families having picnics and a few college students doing their calculus homework.  The trees covered the path with plenty of shade.  It was very peaceful and we loved just hearing the water lap up on the shore.  Again- who knew would we be strolling along a lake in Ethiopia?

We made one last stop a Dashen Bank- the only bank in Ethiopia that accepts MasterCard debit cards.  We withdrew some money for the next few days and walked to our hotel.  We worked with our tour guide over the phone to arrange a van to drive to Gonder tomorrow.  We would be leaving at 7AM, so we went back to the hotel to pack and arrange everything.  

I did some work online and caught up on e-mails.  Dad wanted time to study Thai, so we chose to have a night in.

Tomorrow is the start of another adventure to the town of Gonder- the Camelot of Africa!

Bahir Dar has been wonderful.  I loved our time at the tropical oasis at the source of the Nile!  Between the waterfalls, monasteries, boat trips, markets and locals, this town had it all!  It has definitely been the perfect introduction to our journey through Ethiopia!

Sweet dreams sweet Aidan!  Know that Dad and I love you and miss you more than you will ever know!  I can't wait to write more tomorrow!

All My Love,

MOM