Dear Aidan: Day 12

I know it's been FOREVER since I posted these, but as we were in Ethiopia for about 20 days in December/January, I have a few more to catch up with!  Hope you enjoy reading about our journey as much as we enjoyed living it!

January 2, 2013

Dear Aidan,

I hope you had a great day, little one!  I wish I could record you somehow to see what you do all day- what you play with, who your friends are, how you fall asleep, etc.  There is so much about you that we don't know, but we're dying to find out.  Luckily, we'll have the rest of our lives to do that!!!

Today was a truly unbelievable day.  I'm going to have a hard time documenting this in writing, but luckily we have lots of pictures and videos to share with you in the future.

Yesterday, we arranged a 2-day excursion to the Tigray region of Ethiopia with our guest house.  Dad and I knew we had to see this region in Ethiopia, and we were grateful that our hotel could coordinate this for us.  Tirgray is famous for its rock-hewn churches- churches/monasteries built out of rock, in rock, or on rock/cliffs.  We rented a van and a driver for 2 days, as well as a night's stay at a local hotel near Mekele.  We woke up this morning around 7AM and tried to get ready.  Our hotel room at first didn't have water (keep in mind how dry Northern Ethiopia is- so we weren't surprised).  When we did finally have water, it was freezing cold.  It was also quite chilly outside and in our room, so even getting myself to shower was a chore- let alone actually showering.  I know one day you're going to cringe at hearing stories about your mother showering (or not showering for that matter), but I'm sharing this because running water and hot water are two things we take for granted in the Western world, but they're luxuries in other parts of the world.  I'm writing about this so that Dad and I, and hopefully you, remind ourselves to not take simple things, like running water, for granted.

After what was one of quickest showers I have ever taken, Dad started laughing at me as he handed me the "towel" provided by the guest house.  It was about 1 foot by 2 feet - super small, and as rough as sandpaper.  Definitely not fun (or effective) to dry off with!  This made me miss a big, fluffy towel to dry off with- but again, that's a luxury we take for granted, and shouldn't.

Once we were ready to go on our adventure, we met our driver and our van outside.  We loaded our things in and took off.  We drove for about an hour our so to the first stop...a town called Yeha (yes, that is the town's real name and if Ethiopia had a ghost town- this would be it- very fitting)!  Yeha is only a few kilometers from the Eritrean-Ethiopian border.  Eritrea and Ethiopia used to be one country, but after a brutal civil war in the last 1980s/early 1990s, the two countries separated.  Eritrea gained the coastline that was once part of Ethiopia- making Ethiopia now a land-locked country.  This civil war, as well as being land-locked, are two of the things that greatly influence Ethiopia's economic status and tragic past.

In Yeha, we were able to visit the Temple of Yeha, the oldest standing structure in Ethiopia, from about the 3rd Century.  Our guidebook said that this temple was very similar to the temples at Petra (Jordan).  However, since we haven't been there (yet), we didn't have a reference.  The temple was a beautiful brick building that was being restored.  I could tell that it was something to be seen back in its fully glory with its pools and gardens!  After walking around the temple, and local priest called us upstairs to a newer temple.  Inside, he showed us all of the amazing artifacts from the temple, including old Ethiopian coins, Orthodox bibles written on goat hide, and crosses.  We learned how to date coins by looking to see if they were Christian or not.  The oldest coins in Ethiopia (before the 2nd or 3rd Century) don't have any signs of Christianity on them.  Coins since the 3rd/4th Century do have Christianity symbols and writing on it.  It was amazing to look at coins that were over 1,800 years old in a small, dimly lit temple in Yeha!

After touring the temple, we started walking back to our van.  On the way, we saw many children playing.  Almost all of the children here have flies in their eyes.  It's so common that the children don't seem bothered by them, and don't even swat them away.  Every child has at least 1 fly in each corner of their eyes.  As such, many of the children have awful eye infections with lots of discharge.  As many of these infections go untreated due to lack of hygiene and medical care, many adults have permanent vision damage or even blindness from eye infections/scarring when they were young.  I saw one child with an awful eye infection next to her mother.  The mother let me use some tissues I had with bottled water to wipe her daughter's eyes clean.  I know this was only a temporarily fix, but I wanted to do something.  Again, health care and hygiene are something many of us take for granted in the United States.  This was just another example how simple things like bug spray, soap, eye antibiotics and medical care are lacking in Ethiopia.  My heart ached for the children and their eyes, knowing these diseases are incredibly curable, and often preventable.  But because of where they live, they're not.  

I pray everyday that Dad and I raise you (and your future siblings) in a way to realize these truths about the world and not to take things for granted.  I hope that you always ask what you can do to help others and find a source of happiness from that.  And I pray that we as a human race can work to reduce some of these inequalities so that no child has to become blind from a curable eye infection, amongst many other differences we face.

Before we left Axum, I stopped at a local connivance store and purchased a few large bags of candy to pass out to children.  I wish I could have bought a lot of fruit, but there wasn't much fresh produce to be found in Axum.  Another example of how dry and arid this place is!  On the way out of the temple, I was able to give the children that were playing some candy, and they loved it.  Their smiles were so precious.  It is truly amazing at how beautiful the smile of a child is, the glisten of their eyes, and the innocence of their heart.  Your country, Ethiopia, has truly made an impact on my soul and I don't think I'll ever be the same (for the better).  

Once we were back in the van, we drove along the very dusty, dry road to the highway.  The Chinese have built a highway through Northern Ethiopia.  It seems like everyone knows that the Chinese built the road, but some weren't so sure about the quality.  Hearing this made your Dad and I laugh a bit!  The highway was very nice though- freshly paved, very smooth, 2-lanes with a partial shoulder in parts and not TOO curvy the whole way (just most of the way- you Dad LOVED this).  Our next stop was one of the craziest places I have EVER seen...

Debre Damo is a monastery built on top of a circular plateau.  It is in the middle of a valley and is only about 300-400 meters wide.  This monastery is for men only...women aren't allowed to make the CLIMB.  When we arrived, our driver parked and we walked up at least 500 steps to a ledge that was the "starting point."  From the ledge, there was a 75-foot high cliff.  At the top of the cliff was a small window and the monastery.  There was a large, woven leather rope dangling from the window to the rock ledge we were standing on.  At the top of the rope was a priest, who helped pull the rope (and people climbing it) up.

As we were trying to absorb all of this, a barefoot priest came up the stairs we had just climbed.  He shouted something to the top, signaling the other priest to be ready to help.  The priest at the bottom kissed the cliff, and then used the rope to help him scale the cliff barefoot.  We were shocked!  We later found out that the locals don't use a "harness" as climbing this cliff is a test of faith.  They believe that God will take care of them, and they kiss the cliff, and often pray before climbing.  They believe that God will prevent them from falling, and thus, be their harness.  

For foreigners, however, you must wear a "harness" to climb.  This harness was a piece of leather tied around your waist that was pulled on by the priest up top as you climbed.  Ron gave me the camera and back-back, and got ready.  He tied the "harness" around his waist and I wished him luck.  I then watched him scale the cliff to the small window above.  Luckily, he didn't slip, as that harness (and small priest up top) would not have done much to prevent him from falling.  And then he disappeared...and I waited.

While I waited, a few more priests came to climb to the top.  Just like the first one had done, they all kissed the cliff.  Two of the priests brought food (courtesy of USAID) :) and hay with them.  They used the ropes to haul these to the top to supply the priests at the monastery with food and to help with their farms. 

It was a good 1/2 hour before Dad returned.  I saw his bright shirt appear at the little window up top, and I was able to take pictures of him on the way down.  Just like before, he had the leather strap tied around his waist and then climbed/jumped down.  I have to be honest and say that I was grateful he made it ok!

I asked Dad what it was like up top.  He said there were a few priests and buildings.  The actual monastery building was small, and there was a priest reading from the Bible in Ge'ez.  There were farms and places for the priests to stay, but it was all very simple.

The story behind the monastery is quite something.  No one actually knows who built it, when it was built or why.  I asked our driver and he didn't know.  The guidebook said that most Ethiopians believe that a great serpent was sent by God to build a monastery.  The serpent found a priest and after wrapping himself around the plateau, he used his head to raise the priest to the top to build the monastery.  And that's how it came to be.  This is definitely more folklore than fact, but it was interesting to hear how the locals believe this to be true.  It really demonstrates their deep faith in God and their religion!

After the monastery, we drove to a local town for lunch.  We ate in the back area of a hotel, at their only table- near the bathrooms.  Let's just say I'm glad our food had lots of flavorful smells to block the other odors :).  We ordered traditional Ethiopian food, which was delicious, as always, and then got back on the road.

One of the things that impressed us most about this area was the landscape.  As dry and barren as it it, this area is able to produce enough food during the rainy season to support the people.  Despite the cliffs, rocks and hills, the local Ethiopians have completely changed the landscape over thousands of years.  There were unbelievable terraces and ancient fields.  These feats are evidence of the hard-working nature and the determination of the local Ethiopians to survive.  It was incredible to see!

Our afternoon stop consisted of visiting a group of 3 churches together.  We had about a 2-hour drive before we arrived.  When we reached our last stop, we parked and got out of the car.  We were immediately approached by a "guide" to give us a tour.  We did not really want a guide, nor did was want to pay for one.  However, we realized we were in the absolute middle of nowhere, in a very dry, barren place.  There is very little opportunity for work or to make money besides farming.  Plus, we were in an area not that many tourists visit (only 3-4 groups/day, if that).  Realizing this, we really couldn't say, "No!" as it was our way of giving money to the local economy.  As expected, our guide didn't speak much English and wasn't much of a guide at all- more of an escort.  Even so, I wasn't going to complain about $5.00.  Our guide walked us to the entrance of the first church....and then the adventure began.

The monasteries around here are locked, and only the priests have the key.  Since there was no cell phone service, let alone land lines for phones, the only hope of getting inside is for the priest to be around.  This is where our guide came in handy- helping us find the priests with the key!  Our guidebook said this is the "Trouble with Tigray"- locating the priests and the keys.  It turned into quite the adventure.

Finally, the priest of the first monastery was found at home, and he arrived at the church entrance with the key.  Before we could go in, we had to make a "donation" first.  Our guide book from 2010 stated that the entrance to each church/monastery was $5.00.   However, the priest wanted $10.00/person.  Keep in mind the the value of the Birr had increased, and the economy of Ethiopia has been slowly improving.  Although we didn't want to pay this, we drove all this way (and paid all the money to drive this way) to see the churches, so we obliged.  The priest open the gate that led to the trail that led to the Church....

Upon arriving at the end of the trail, we reached the most rickety wooden ladder I had ever seen.  Under this ladder (that was hammered to trees in the cliff), there was an older, even more rickety ladder.  We were told that this ladder was newly built and was an upgrade from the older ladder- I could tell- and was grateful!  We had to climb up this ladder to the ledge of the cliff where the monastery was.  I went first- Ron followed.  We decided this for 2 reasons:

1.  I weigh less than Ron and would "test" the ladder.  If it was stressed under my weight, there would be no way it could handle Ron's weight.

2.  Ron could attempt to catch me if I fell (in case #1 proved that the ladder was too weak).

When we reached the top, I was extremely proud of myself for climbing up that thing.  But then I thought, "How the HECK am I going to get down?!?!?"  

The monastery was carved into the rock and was beautiful with its paintings.  There were old crosses and Bibles as well that we were able to see.  Most impressive was the view of the valley and the dry farmland below.  After exploring, we were led on a little trail on a ledge to an older monastery.  Along the way, there were skulls and human bones on our path.  Kind of interesting- SUPER creepy!

We asked about them and we were told that those were the remains of priests that chose to die at the monastery.  They were "buried" under a ledge, but with time, their bones and skulls had rolled down from the ledge, onto the trail.  After explaining this to us, one of the priests used his stick to shove/roll the skulls uphill, and off our path- until they rolled down again.

After seeing the older monastery, we began our climb down.  This time, Ron went first so he could help me down.  After what seemed like hundreds of rungs, I made it down!  We were asked if we wanted to see the "newer" church and said, "Sure!"

At the bottom of the cliff was a door in the rock that was locked.  The priest unlocked the door and we entered into a man-made cave.  There were tapestries on the wall and paintings.  In the corner, there was a puddle of water from condensation of the cave.  We were told that they use this Holy water for baptisms and to heal people that are sick.  While walking around, we found a small chisel and pick.  We asked what it was for, and we were told that was what the priests used to make the church- with that pick and chisel, by hand.  They said it took them 13 years to make- and after seeing the size of the cave, I'm surprised it didn't take them longer!

On the way back to the car, we were greeted by children.  I had to give them candy, which they loved.  And I quickly made fast friends by joining in a game of soccer!  I truly hope that you enjoy being active, playing sports, and spending time outside as you grow!  This is one part of Ethiopian culture that I love and I hope to maintain in you!

After visiting that church, we began the search for the other priests who had the keys to the other 2 churches.  After a somewhat extensive search, the priests were nowhere to be found.  Although we wanted to see the churches, we realized it wouldn't be possible- and we didn't want to spend an extra $40.00 for the 2 of us to see them both.  We decided to call it a day and drove to our hotel.

Walking back to our van, we were able to stop and briefly visit with a family who was using their cattle to grind tef (the grain used to make injera).  It was wonderful watching the process of using the cattle, as well as the whole family to prepare the crop!

Our hotel was in an incredibly small town, so we weren't expecting much from our room.  Luckily, we only had to pay $10.00 it.  Our bed was a box spring with 1 sheet and 1 comforter/quilt laid down.  We didn't have a towel and the water was turned off/out.  After having electricity when we arrived, that soon went out.  Luckily, we were able to grab some dinner from the small restaurant in front of the hotel first.  We settled into our room, tried our best to get comfortable, and laughed about the craziness of the day.  Luckily, I had your Dad to rest my head on as we only had 1 small, very flat pillow that he had to use.  Have I told you yet that I'm grateful for the things that are available to us in the United States?!?!?  Once again- the things we take for granted!

Well, Mr. Aidan Bedassa- I hope you sleep well and have wonderful dreams about growing, learning and being loved by your new family!  Only a few more days until you're in our arms again- we CAN'T wait!

All of my love,

Mom